The Art of Organic Winemaking

Recently I spent a day photographing the organic vineyard, wine tasting and learning about sustainable farming at Woodfine Wine. Following my trip, I was keen to learn more about how this enterprise came into being. It still surprises me that we have a natural wine growing industry in the UK and I was intrigued to know more about what motivated founder, Richard Woodfine, to embark on this challenge. He was kind enough to answer a few of my questions – I hope you enjoy.

Rich – please tell me a bit more about Woodfine Wine? What inspired you to start a British winemaking business with very little prior experience (it was a brave move), and what makes you so passionate about it today?

Halfway through my life (if I’m lucky!), I resolved to spend my potential ‘second half’ restoring the natural environment in the UK. With that, I quit my job and decided to (i) create an organic and regenerative farm (with winemaking at its heart); and (ii) set up a charity (Rebel Restoration) that restores ecosystems across the UK – removing carbon, enhancing biodiversity and doing so with maximum community impact. 

For me, both of these objectives have the same outcome in mind – to restore natural ecosystems. They just come from slightly different starting points and have different constraints (i.e. agriculture needs to be productive for humans, not just the natural world). I find these to be fascinating problems to solve and strive to use traditional practices – many that have been long-forgotten, but that have huge potential impact and learnings for the future.

I know that caring for the environment and educating around sustainability are important parts of your process. You’ve been working closely with the Soil Association to gain organic status for your wines and are very intentional regarding the ecosystem created around the vineyard and farm. What would you say have been your major successes and wins in this area since setting up Woodfine Wine?

For us, wine is a vehicle to talk about the natural world. (Most) people like wine! It is convivial and induces joy, conversation and connection alongside food. And yet it is a farmed product which is intimately connected to the natural world – in fact, it is probably the most premium farmed product. With agriculture, land management, pesticides and herbicides at the forefront of discourse and action on the climate and nature crises, wine is a fabulous gateway into conversation around regenerative agriculture. 

On a Tour & Tasting day we talk about conservation and regenerative, organic and biodynamic farming – all vital elements of our process. We discuss the positive impact of traditional farming methods on grape growing and natural winemaking. We also touch on the benefits it can have on our physical and mental health through nutrition. We seek to inform people about the volume of chemically engineered wines on the market today. Many contain lots of hidden additives (not currently required to be listed on any labels) and are a result of a manufacturing industry that uses tonnes of chemicals, machinery and human intervention.

As a result of our organic approach, some recent accolades include:

• Being awarded ‘Food & Farming Champion’ for Buckinghamshire
• Meeting the Secretary of State for DEFRA (The Department for Environment Food & Rural Affairs) at No. 10 Downing Street
• Being listed in Michelin-starred restaurants, independent bottle shops and natural wine bars across the UK
• Being asked to host the UK Organic Wine Fair in 2023
• Being asked to host all of the winemaking MSc students in the UK as the exemplar vineyard / winery for regenerative viticulture and natural winemaking in the UK
• Hosting nutritionist-led educational courses
  
• Being a continual source of inspiration for our volunteers, customers and suppliers.

What are the most challenging / exciting aspects of making natural wine in the UK?

The UK is one of the most challenging areas in the world to make good wine because it has a ‘marginal climate’ for grape growing. However, (for all of the wrong reasons), we have just entered the optimal climatic window for growing ripe Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. These are the grapes used to produce sparkling wine (‘Champagne’ / ‘English Sparkling Wine’). 

So, with this new industry and the potential of these new grapes in mind – we decided to embark upon the challenge of creating a new viticulture business. Our three main objectives are based on being (i) organic and biodynamic, (ii) championing regenerative practices, (including animal husbandry, like keeping chickens, sheep, bees), and (iii) committing to omit all 70 chemicals, additives, colourants, enzymes, agents and preservatives typically used in winemaking! Let’s just say – it is not for the faint-hearted or risk averse.

What’s your favourite wine at the moment? And what tips do you have for people looking to try natural wines for the first time?

I love Chardonnay… and I used to hate Chardonnay! In the past it was all made in the same way – citrus, grassy grapes, massively oaked and sometimes lees-aged to the point that “ABC” entered the vernacular: “Anything But Chardonnay”. It was a drink synonymous with the 1980’s, until we/I rediscovered the beauty of the naked grape and left behind the ‘food engineered’ rubbish and additives. Find a real Chardonnay and you will love it. Crisp, clean and citrus, but made in a different way, can become pear, banana, stone fruits and hibiscus. It is so versatile. We were told to expect one thing from this grape, but it is so much more.

My favourite wine of the future will be from PIWI (disease-resistant grapes), regardless of what it tastes like. This is because these wines promise to be produced from grapes that require zero pesticides and herbicides (unlike much of the wine drunk today). Look out for Cabernet Noir, Cabernet Blanc, Sauvignac, Voltis and others. They are the real deal when it comes to low intervention land management. 20% of our vineyard is planted with these grapes and we aspire to produce the UK’s first pesticide/herbicide-free natural (ie. zero-addition) wine. Watch this space!

What are your dreams for Woodfine Wine? Where would you like to see it / the industry in 5 years time?

I hope we can continue to exist as a small enterprise with a big voice – supporting a small team and restoring the 16 acres of land we inhabit as a testament to what can be done. To continue our journey of being productive, engaging and educating community, creating jobs and restoring the natural world… all whilst giving customers what they want. The Holy Grail, and nothing less, but all over a glass of wine!

Learn more about Woodfine Wine
Book a Tour & Tasting
Shop organic wine
Find out about Rebel Restoration
View more imagery